Souffle Aux Epinards and an Ode to Julia

August 23rd, 2009


Julia Child was my Muse. I was married in 1966. After a brief honeymoon on the shores of Lake Michigan and time spent in Gatlinburg,Tennessee, we headed for Florida where my husband would be attending graduate school. Some of my constant companions in the car on the way south were my cookbooks. I was just learning to cook and it fascintated me. When Julia Child first appeared on television I was hooked. We eventually moved to Greensboro, North Carolina and I had the opportunity to take cooking classes from Irena Chalmers who had the most enticing french cooking school and shop. I bought my first copper pan and Le Creuset braising pot from her. She taught me many of the basics of French cooking and she is still teaching today at the CIA. But there was always Julia. I bought Mastering the Art of French Cooking in 1971.

I have been wanting to post one of Julia’s recipes all month because of her birthday on August 15th and the release of the movie Julie and Julia, but the box containing my copy of her book was in our storage building, buried behind furniture and rugs. I finally rescued it this weekend when we brought a load of furniture home for our remodeled lower level. It was good to see it again, looking worn and stained from years of constant use.

Last night I decided to make her spinach souffle. I did not start it until 6:00. I had already brought the eggs and frozen spinach to room temperature. I was confident; maybe a little cocky. I loved the movie Julie and Julia, by the way. Meryl Streep and Stanley Tucci were magnetic as Julia and Paul and the scenes of 1950’s Paris were mezmorizing. I wanted the whole movie to be about them. Amy Adams as Julie did her best, but I found her character sometimes whiny and annoying. Why couldn’t she have the joie de vivre of Julia? Cooking is supposed to be fun after all. I made my white sauce, grated the cheeses, squeezed the spinach dry and separated my eggs. One of the eggs broke strangely and I got a little yolk in the egg whites in the bowl of my Kitchen Aid. “Oh well, it was just a little”, I told myself. I added the egg yolks to the spinach mixture and turned on the mixer to whip the egg whites. I whipped and whipped and they refused to froth. It became clear to me that they were never going to whip and I was out of eggs. By this time it was close to 7:00. The grocery store in Lake Lure is twenty minutes away, but the gas station at the bottom of the hill is close. I ran to the car and negotiated the curving road to town. The gas station store had just closed at 7:00. I banged on the door like a crazy woman and the owner opened up for me. Unfortunately he was out of eggs. I had no choice but to continue around the lake to the Ingle’s store. I got back home at about 7:45 with a carton of cold eggs. I cleaned out the bowl of the Kitchen Aid, added the egg whites one at a time after first breaking them into a small bowl ( a good tip by the way ) and started the mixer again. The eggs immediately did what they were supposed to do. I folded them into the spinach mixture and poured the whole into my souffle dish, actually my charlotte mold. I learned a trick from Ina Garten to help a souffle puff. Run a spatula in a circle about an inch in from the edge all the way around and the center will puff. Finally I had the dish in the oven. I was exhausted and I didn’t know if the cold egg whites would hinder the souffle from rising. I was also a little cranky. Where had I seen that before? It was a humbling experience.

The souffle finally came out of the oven at about 8:45, fashionably late and not as tall as I would have liked, but looking and smelling delicious. As Julia would say, “Never apologize”. We dug in with gusto.

SOUFFLE AUX EPINARDS (SPINACH SOUFFLE) adapted from Julia Child with touches of Ina Garten

3 Tbls unsalted butter plus more for greasing souffle dish
3 Tbls flour
1 cup scalded milk
a pinch of nutmeg
a pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for sprinkling the dish
1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese
10 oz package of chopped spinach thawed and squeezed dry
4 egg yolks
5 egg whites
1/8 tsp cream of tartar

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 6 cup souffle dish and sprinkle it with Parmesan cheese. Melt the butter in a heavy sauce pan and add the flour. Cook and whisk for about a minute. Add the hot milk off the heat and whisk until it is thick. Return to low heat if it does not thicken. Again off heat, add the two cheeses to the mixture. Separate the eggs in two bowls, discarding or saving one of the egg yolks. Beat the egg yolks. Slowly add the egg yolks to the cheese sauce while whisking. Add the seasoning and spinach and stir to combine.

Add the 1/8 tsp cream of tartar to the egg whites and beat them until firm and glossy peaks form. Whisk one quarter of the egg whites into the cheese sauce to lighten, and then fold in the rest. Pour into the prepared souffle dish, then smooth the top. Draw a large circle on top with the spatula and place in the middle of the oven. Turn the temperature down to 375 degrees. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes until puffed and brown. Serve immediately.

Printable recipe

15 responses to “Souffle Aux Epinards and an Ode to Julia”

  1. Grace says:

    ya know, i’ve never made a soufflé. yours is massively impressive, and a wonderful homage to your muse. 🙂

  2. Oh my goodness, does this look out of this world yummy or what. I have never made a souffle, I have always been scared to try.
    Your chocolate cookies look so delicious.
    I wish I could cook like you. I am just a very simple cook, I keep telling my husband when I retire I am going to take a few cooking classes he said he wanted to go with me. He really loves to cook, but when he’s done it takes longer to clean up after him as it did for him to prepare the meal. LOL.
    I love your posts,
    Take care and enjoy your day,
    Elizabeth

  3. Penny, that looks amazing! I have never attempted a souffle either. I could just picture you driving around the lake to get to Ingles!
    Hugs,
    Penny

  4. Natashya says:

    I have never made a souffle either, I hope to soon. Yours looks just grand!

  5. Mary says:

    It looks awfully good to me, Penny. I think we all fall victim to the old “the other guy does it better than me.” Mine sometimes rise like an elevator, sometimes not and I swear I do nothing different when I prepare them. It’s the kitchen trolls playing with us.

  6. ARLENE says:

    I absolutely loved Julie and Julia. I had to go home and review my copy of Julia Child’s Kitchen, one of the first cookbooks I bought back in the 70’s. I intended to do a post in time for Julia’s birthday, but life got in the way. The souffle looks wonderful. I have to decide what to make.

  7. Martha says:

    Love the charlotte mold for the souffle! Looks yummy and I, too, have been “channeling” Julia and rereading her cookbook.

    I loved the movie as well — saw it TWICE!

  8. Bella says:

    That looks wonderful! I’ve never tried a souffle – they always seemed too daunting.
    By the way, I’m sending you the Splash Award, too. Come and get it at your leisure. 🙂

    http://beautydoesmatter.blogspot.com/2009/08/beauty-of-perfect-meal-and-making.html

  9. Katy ~ says:

    I’m too scarrit to try souffle;I just know it would deflate. Yours is a crowning glory!

  10. What a nice tribute to Julia. I love the souffle and smiled with the “touch of Ina” included. Ina loved Julia too. I learned a lot of my cooking skills from Julia and am on my second copy (after wearing out the first one) of Mastering the Art of French Cooking. I enjoyed the French Chef series. They didn’t mention in the movie that Paul was the producer.

    The movie was fun and I agree that the parts about Julia and Paul made the show. They never explained in the movie why Julia didn’t like the idea of Julie and her blog. I wonder if it was true? Our movie reviewer in our local paper commented that he wished Julie’s husband had better table manners and not chewed with his mouth open.

    Your souffle dish is so French – tres chic.
    Sam

  11. Beautiful. I hope you had a nice glass of wine after your trip to the store and back. Love the tip too.

  12. Hi Penny..thanks for stopping by. Your souffle looks so great! I love souffle, but don’t seem to make it very much. I should as we start to get into fall.

    Do try the dilly bread. It does go good with cozy food…

    Your kitchen is beautiful btw…

    I’ll check back later..

    Best,
    Kary

  13. That’s funny, Penny — I’ve never cooked from Julia’s books — had to stop at the bookstore and get her first book after I saw the movie. Still haven’t tried it. But now I might.

  14. Christine says:

    That’s a mighty nice looking souffle despite all your travails, Penny. Ya done good!

  15. Kate says:

    Beautiful souffle! I must admit, I do not own a Julia Child cookbook…how I could “grow up” and not have one I do not know…I must have at least 100 cookbooks on the shelf!
    I totally enjoyed the movie…I just thought Julie was like me on occasion, stressed to the max and totally frustrated!

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