It is official. The cookbook that I have been patiently awaiting arrived in my mailbox last week. Mimi Thorisson, of the lovely blog Manger, published her exquisite book A Kitchen in France; A Year of Cooking in My Farmhouse. I am totally thrilled with it. It is a large book, worthy of coffee table placement. The pages are thick and of the finest quality. It is richly photographed by her talented husband Oddur and Mimi’s prose about their lives in the Medoc region of France is spellbinding. I will stop gushing now, but I believe that anyone would be happy to own this cookbook. Click on my Favorite reads widget on the right to get the information about the book from Amazon. You have to be on my home page to see the link.
The recipes are unique and are arranged seasonally. Trying to decide which ones to try first was a pleasant dilemma. Most of the recipes are easy and familiar. But there are a few that are uniquely French and a little challenging, like squab pie with foie gras and armagnac. I am starting with recipes that are familiar to me and you can’t get any more basic than the humble potato. Mimi’s recipe for Lyonnaise potatoes is easy and delicious.
By sauteing the partially cooked sliced potatoes in several batches, you are assured that you will get evenly browned potatoes. The finished dish with the cooked onions goes into an oven for about 10 minutes at the end. This makes it possible to make the dish ahead of time before the final finish in the oven.
The potatoes are buttery and crispy. Mimi calls Lyonnaise potatoes “the little black dress of side dishes”. It goes with everything.
MIMI’S LYONNAISE POTATOES
2 pounds new potatoes, peeled
About 11 tablespoons butter
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 onions, thinly sliced
A bunch of fresh parsley, leaves removed and finely chopped
Put the potatoes in a large pot, add enough salted cold water to cover, bring to a boil, and cook until parboiled, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cool running water. Let cool for a few minutes, then slice the potatoes into 1/8-inch thick slices.
In a large saute pan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add about one-quarter of the potatoes and fry, seasoning them with salt and pepper, until golden, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Continue frying the potatoes, adding more butter each time (you should use about 8 tablespoons in total), until all of them are cooked.
Meanwhile, in another saute pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Cook the onions until golden, about 5 minutes.
Return all of the potatoes to the pan, add the onions, and mix gently. Cook for 5 more minutes for the flavors to combine.
Transfer the potatoes and onions to a large baking dish. Bake until gently sizzling, about 10 minutes.
Sprinkle the parsley over the potatoes and serve. Serves 4 to 6.